Sunday, June 05, 2011

Trivandrum Skyline

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Which are the peaks in the Western Ghats range to the east of Thiruvananthapuram?


If one looks at a corresponding GoogleMap, it seems the ridges & peaks, going from Left to Right (or North to South) are:
* Agastyamala
* Mukkunimala
* Ponmudi Hills
* Kodayar Ranges


View Larger Map


Thursday, June 02, 2011

Monsoons: Arrived On Time!

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Its a breathtaking sight from the seashore.

As far as the eye can see, a massive wall of dark grey clouds silently approaching the Kerala coast, bringing in a season of torrential rains. It is an event carefully monitored by the Met Department, for, in these clouds, hangs the fate of agricultural production in much of the Indian subcontinent.

Here are some pics from Valiyathura Pier in Thiruvananthapuram, Kerala - 

A turbulent Arabian Sea

 A fishing boat being readied on Valiyathura Pier


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LINKS:
  • Indian Meteorological Department: Monsoon Updates - http://www.imd.gov.in/section/nhac/dynamic/Monsoon_frame.htm
  • Much awaited southwest monsoon sets in over Kerala, 3 days before normal . The Hindu 30 May 2011. http://www.hindu.com/2011/05/30/stories/2011053058901100.htm
  • South-West Monsoon Active Over Kerala. ToI 31 May 2011. http://articles.timesofindia.indiatimes.com/2011-05-31/india/29603548_1_meteorology-sources-kerala-and-lakshadweep-south-arabian-sea

Wednesday, June 01, 2011

Chinese Whispers for Indian Importers

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Thanks to the incessant power outages in Kerala, I needed a rechargable battery for my emergency lamp. At the electrical shops lining Thakaraparambil road in Trivandrum, the battery is easily available . A shopkeeper unpacks a set and I take a look at the product code - it is the correct one. How much does it cost?

"Rs.185", says the shopkeeper.

I turn it over and see that it has a printed sticker marked - "Rs. 75 Maximum Retail Price (MRP)". I protest.

The shopkeeper removes the product from the counter and puts it back on the shelf. "Take it or leave it", he says, "Chinese products always come this way. Even the caller-id machines come with an MRP of Rs.5 but we never sell it for less than Rs.50". Needless to say, there is no proof-of-purchase here - the shops flatly refuse to provide receipts for Chinese goods.

Obviously somebody has cleared the imports based on the MRP, and made a killing. If you consider the fact that just about everything in the electrical goods market is now Chinese, how much is the net excise-duty & tax evasion on account of Chinese imports to India?

Sunday, May 29, 2011

Education & Employment: The Missing Link

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Public spaces in Kerala are usually dominated by advertisements for jewellery, textiles or real-estate. Under the canopy of these billboards promising the most exclusive ornaments, garments and villas, a new type of poster has been appearing on walls and bus-stands. These are put out by private educational institutions to publicize their success in helping students clear the board-examinations.

Looking at these posters you marvel at the the amount of money people are willing to invest in their children's education, and, at the same time, despair at the futility of their efforts. The serious inadequacies in the Indian education system were highlighted by the Prime Minister himself, way back in 2007 - "(only) Around 10% of our students of the relevant age group is enrolled in any institute of higher education, as compared to 50% in most developed countries...less then 50% of high-school students continue into higher education in any form. Almost two-thirds of our universities and 90% of our colleges are rated as below average on quality parameters. And, most important, there is a nagging fear that university curriculum is not synchronized with employment needs".

Has anything been done to remove the mismatch between the curriculum and employment needs? Have the teachers stopped advocating rote memorization and the obsession with exam success? 

According to an Oxford academic, many Indians have discovered education at the precise moment at which formal schooling has ceased to be a passport to success. Weaknesses of the education system in India have been identified in numerous studies -   lack of continuous assessment; teachers and students tend to focus on examinations and curricular review tends to be slow. These weaknesses have already translated into serious bottlenecks for the economy - there is already a serious shortage of suitably trained civil engineers; India now relies on tens of thousands of Chinese guest workers to expand its energy infrastructure and the shortage of software professionals is expected to be 3,500,000 by 2020!

Given the number of education institutions that are owned or controlled directly by the politicians, one wonders why they have not yet spotted an opportunity in changing the focus of education from exams to employment. 

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REFERENCES:

* Karl, David J. (2011). EDUCATION IN URGENT NEED FOR OVERHAUL. Hindu BusinessLine16 May 2011.
* Suroor, Hasan (2011). 'EDUCATION IS A NECESSARY BUT NOT A SUFFICIENT BASIS FOR SOCIAL MOBILITY: Interview with Craig Jeffrey, and Oxford academic. Hindu BusinessLine  May 2011
* Kapur, Vikram (2011): A TRAVESTY OF EDUCATION, The Hindu, 25 June 2011 URL - http://www.thehindu.com/arts/magazine/article2134209.ece

Thursday, May 26, 2011

Backyard Biology

Some more insect ids from Shaku (previous post - here)

These are insects that abound in the sultry heat that precedes the arrival of the South-West Monsoons in Kerala, India.



A looper-caterpillar pretending to be a broken twig. Loopers mostly belong to family Geometridae and are minor pests of different crops.  They are excellent at camouflage and caterpillars feed on leaves and sometimes fruit or flowers. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Geometer_moth


 Cucumber beetle (Family Chrysomelidae). Perhaps it it is Aulacophora flavomarginata - Black back cucumber beetle  http://www.ipmimages.org/browse/detail.cfm?imgnum=5368034



Cucumber Moth http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diaphania_indica



Oriental fruit fly  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bactrocera_dorsalis


Coconut rhinoceros beetle female.  The male has a much more magnificent horn.   http://www.guaminsects.net/uogces/kbwiki/index.php?title=Oryctes_rhinoceros

Thursday, May 19, 2011

Ayurveda and the Columbian Exchange

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One of the standard textbooks used for training Ayurvedic physicians in Kerala is the "Ashtanga Hrdaya Sutra Sthana" (the essence of eight limbs), written or compiled by Vagbhata, a Karachi-born buddhist savant, in circa 800AD.

This treatise is an elaborate collection of sutra's that cover a wide range of topics that include the specific foods that are to consumed or avoided as a part of the healing regimen ("pathyam"). It includes specific references to the medicinal properties of beef (cow and buffalo - verse 66 & 67, Chapter - Annaswarupa Vijnaniya), despite what some born-again Hindu fanatics of today, may claim to the contrary.

What is interesting, however, is not what has been included in the "Asthanga Hrdaya" or any other classics, so much as what has been excluded. Since the time of Vagabhata, a wide range of new plants and trees have been introduced across the Asian continent. Perhaps the largest such tranche came in the Portuguese and Spanish galleons sailing across the pacific ocean from the "New World" - the Americas.

This exchange of animals, plants, culture, human populations (including slaves), communicable diseases, and ideas between the Eastern and Western hemispheres (Old World and New World), was termed as the Columbian Exchange

The Age of Exploration soon brought the European  ships to the shores and trading posts in South India, a process that brought about dramatic changes in local food habits. Today, it seems incredulous to even imagine Andhra cruisine without the green-red chili peppers; or the diet a Keralan without tapioca (cassava), cashew nuts (parangi-andi or Ferenghi/Frank nuts) or peanuts (kappal-andi or "ship nuts"), tomato or potato, not to mention cash-crops like tobacco, coffee, cocoa, vanilla and rubber .

What has been the impact of the Columbian exchange on the Ayurvedic pharmacopeia?  How many sutra's reflect the evolution and change in food habits? or the availability of new medicinal plant or animal extracts?

It would be interesting to know if anybody has attempted to adapt the classic prescriptions of Charaka, Sushruta and Vagbhata, in response to the changing times..

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LINKS
  • Astanga Hrdaya of Vagbhata, 3 Vols. (K.R. Srikantha Murthy (Tr.), 2008) - http://www.easternbookcorporation.com/moreinfo.php?txt_searchstring=143
  • History of Ayurveda - http://www.trilokayurveda.com/history4.aspx

Ants in Kerala


I never cease to wonder at the amazing diversity of life in the tropics. Even the smallest patches of land seem to be home to so many different types of plants, insects, reptiles and birds!

The question for the day is this: How many different species of ants can there be in a 11 "cent"* plot in Trivandrum, Kerala?

A few years ago, I would have been content to divide ants into two broad categories - the ones that bite and those that didn't. That was, of course, before the age of WWW and online databases. But even now, the material available in these databases seem to have a limited coverage of the Indian subcontinent - let alone separate eco-zones and sub-zones within countries.

This dilemma was solved recently when a biologist friend handed me just the sort of book I was looking for - "On a Trail With Ants - A Handbook of the Ants of Peninsular India", a self-published book by Ajay Narendra and Sunil Kumar M.

Here is a list of local ant species that have been identified so far -
NOTE: Three broad parts to an ant – head, mesoma, and gaster. The head portion contains the antennae (funiculus), eyes and teeth (mandibles); the legs are attached to mesoma ( middle) segments and the gaster is bulbous portion at the rear and sometimes bears a sting.

1. Weaver Ant (Oecophylla smaragdina)



Weaver-ant soldiers keep a sharp eye on the males (black, winged), preventing them from flying away until the time is just right. Featured in National Geographic of May 2011.

2. Miniscule House Ant (Tetramorium smithi): Subfamily Myrmicinae.: Tiny (2mm) red-ants with a sharp bite

3. Golden Backed Ant (Camponotus sericeus): Lone foragers with workers in different sizes (polymorphic), ranging from 10mm to 4mm

4. Odor Ant (Tapimoma melanocephalum): Sub-family: Dolichoderinae: The most commonly seen ants indoors - its everywhere – clothes, curtains and even laptops! Seems to have supplanted the MHA a few years ago. 1.5 -2mm length; distinct pale yellowish gaster; long antennae

5. Pharaoh Ant (Monomorium pharaonis) : Subfamily Myrmicinae [Note: Id. to be confirmed]. Workers in sizes ranging from deep maroon head and gaster with reddish. Location: Outdoors – around the potted plants.
Pharaoh Ant - assorted sizes on a garden wall

6. Giant Honey Ant (Camponotus irritans)[Note: Id. to be confirmed] <>  Fast moving solitary hunter. Location: Indoors – mainly in the ground-floor bathrooms.

7. White-footed Ghost Ant (Technomyrmex albipes) Subfamily: Dolichoderinae: Shiny black ant 2.5-3mm long, with an oval,  pointy gaster. Recently hopped across from the banana fronds touching my  window to look for food in my dust bin. Location: Outdoors on banana fronds; indoors in the window sill. This ant figures in the PCI list of common Indian pests.
White-footed Ghost Ant

8. Yellow Crazy Ant (Anoplolepis gracilipes) Sub-family: Formicinae: Red transluscent ants, 6.5-7mm long with large gasters. Invasive species, indicates human disturbance in habitat.  <> Location: Indoors and outdoors.


9. Common Godzilla Ant (Camponotus compressus) Subfamily Formicinae: Black, opaque ant having workers in at least three different sizes ranging from 16mm to 8mm. Forage in small groups. Location: Exclusively outdoors.

10. Black Crazy Ant (Paratrechina longicornis) Subfamily Formicinae: About 3.5mm in length this ant’s main characteristic is its long, slender antenna. Location: Mainly indoors.

11. Greater Trap-Jaw Ant (Ondontomachus haematodus): About 15mm long this ant forages solitarily with its mandibles wide open. Location: only in the front-yard.


12. Finned Dolly Ant (Dolichodorus affinis) - Always a loner, this ant was spotted atop a banana tree. About 4mm in size, it is distinctly different with its deep, shiny maroon body - the gaster glints like a jewel in sunlight!

13. Common Red Fire Ant (Solenopsis geminata: Large nests on the steps leading to Parai Kovil, marked by heaps of powdery red soil particles.

14. Arched Two-spined Ant (Polyarchis halidayi)   [Note: Id. to be confirmed]: Atop a sapota-tree, hangs a nest made out of a single folded leaf walled with mud and larval silk. Home to about 20 ants. When disturbed the ants rush out and arch themselves into a defensive position, exposing the underside of their gasters which have a distinct black, metallic silver color.


14. Unidentified...which one is this??


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*Note: 1 "Cent" =  40.5 sq m

Excerpt from NatGeo  article of May 2011:
Scientists have likened weaver ant communication to a type of language with primitive syntax,. Mathematicians draw upon analysis of ant behavior to devise parallel computing formulas (where multiple problems are solved simultaneously). Ants serve as models of all kinds of studies aimed at figuring out how big, complex jobs get done with small parts and minimum instructions.

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REFERENCES

Friday, May 06, 2011

India's Railways & Competition

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Will the involvement of the private sector make India's railway services more efficient and cost effective?

Given the level of efficiency and sophistication achieved by the railway sector in countries like Japan, it is perhaps fair to note that the Indian Railways has a long-long way to go. In Japan,  the railway industry is bristling with competition among private players who - especially after 1987 - have steadily moved beyond manufacturing of locomotives and rolling stock into operating most of the urban networks.

In India, even manufacturing of rolling stock continues to remain the exclusive forte of public sector companies. Unlike in telecom or roadways, the level of involvement of private players in railways continues to be blocked by successive governments. Recent statements by Mamata Banerjee make it clear that IR will only tolerate private sector encroachment into their "non-core" services such as catering and land development. Perhaps the only exception here is the token presence of private players in freight transport.

According to Frederic Jenny, Economist turned Judge and Chairman of the Committee on Competition Law and Policy, OECD Paris, there are two reasons why governments keep sectors like the Railways a government monopoly: First, a developed communication network generates positive externalities, and, second, competition in setting up railway infrastructure would be wasteful. Having supported government intervention, he goes on to say that provision of competition in railway services, for example competition in operation of freight or passenger trains, can be quite useful to improve the quality of the service and lower its cost.

The benefits of competition, however, continues to elude the railways. In the latest policy document, "Railway 2020", plans for privatization of selected railway services have been either slowed down. Recommendations of the Rakesh Mohan Panel (2001), prescribing a drastic overhaul of the Indian Railways, continues to be mothballed...



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REFERENCES

* S., Arun (2011). 'Competition laws bring economic democracy' - Interview with Frederic Jenny, Economist turned Judge, Chairman of the Committee on Competition Law and Policy, OECD Paris. 3 May 2011
* Why Indian Railways Must be Privatized (The Broad Mind, Takshashila, 25 Mar 2011) - http://broadmind.nationalinterest.in/2011/03/indian-railways-privatization/
* Railways runs on privatization track (ToI, 30 Dec., 2005) - http://articles.timesofindia.indiatimes.com/2005-12-30/india-business/27866945_1_indian-railways-delhi-mumbai-route-railway-minister
* IFC- Financing PPP in Indian Railways - http://indianrailways.gov.in/uploads/directorate/planning/Workshop%20-%20PLG%20COMM,%20IR,%20WORLD%20BANK/26.03.09/Vipul.pdf
* Rakesh Mohan Panel Moots TRAI-like Panel for Railways - http://www.thehindubusinessline.in/2001/08/13/stories/14137104.htm
* GoI Position Paper - PPP in  Railways - http://www.pppinindia.com/pdf/ppp_position_paper_railways_102k9.pdf
* PPP is not Privatization - Expert (Zee News, 12 Jul 2009) - http://www.zeenews.com/news546460.html

Thursday, April 28, 2011

On "Independent" Regulators


Under the shadow of Fukushima and the 25th anniversary of the Chernobyl nuclear disaster, India has decided to go ahead with a N-power project at Jaitapour, Maharashtra. A report in the Hindu adds that, "in a concession to heightened public awareness of the need for proper regulation and oversight...the government promised to introduce a bill in the next session of the Parliament for creating an independent and autonomous Nuclear Regulatory Authority of India (NRAI) that would subsume the existing Atomic Energy Regulatory Board (AERB)".

How many regulatory institutions in India are actually "independent and autonomous"?  Given the way in which agencies like TRAI have been created then then rendered toothless, the NRAI-bill is unlikely to inspire much confidence in N-safety.

There is, of course, a world of difference between regulating telecom and N-power. The inability of TRAI to foresee or prevent scams does not result in permanent genetic damage, malignant tumors or death.

The hazards of creating a pliable "independent and autonomous" N-regulatory authority has been brought out forcefully in a recent NYT article. Onishi and Belson write about the 'culture of complicity' behind the recent disaster at Fukushima-Daiichi plant.

The regulations that control the Japanese N-industry have a record of being inconsistent, nonexistent and unenforced. Thanks to a nexus between politicians, bureaucrats and industry executives, the regulatory system - headed by the Nuclear and Industry Safety Agency - remained non-transparent, encouraging collusive interests that "underlie the establishment’s push to increase nuclear power despite the discovery of active fault lines under plants, new projections about the size of tsunamis and a long history of cover-ups of safety problems".

How do we prevent such a collusion of vested interests? Onishi and Belson present the Nuclear Regulatory Commission in USA as a possible institutional model which is free to choose from a pool of engineers unaffiliated with a utility or manufacturer, including those who learned their trade in the Navy or at research institutes.

The very fact that government of India intends to subsume AERB into NRAI may be a tacit admission that it is not, at present, an effective regulatory body. But will the NRAI turn out to be nothing but old wine in a new, subsumed bottle?

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LINKS

Dhar, Aarti (2011). Green Signal to Jaitapur Nuclear Project
Onishi, Norimitsu and Belson, Ken (2011). Culture of Complicity Tied to Stricken Nuclear Plant. New York TImes, 26 April 2011

Monday, April 25, 2011

BSNL 3G - An Exercise in Frustration

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A few days ago, I was taken in by a BSNL campaign and purchased a 3G data-card which promised high-speed (7.2 Mbps), value-for-money Internet connectivity. It has been a disappointment.

The promise of high speed has remained just that - a promise.

I had initially shortlisted three service providers, after consulting folks (I thought) who knew better - Tata-Docomo, Reliance and BSNL. All three provided 3G services but I was told that the first two - Tata and Reliance - offered this service only on a CDMA platform whereas BSNL had it on the more widely used GSM platform. I wanted a connection that could be used throughout India and BSNL, with its huge, government-backed infrastructure seemed like a logical choice.

POINT-OF-SALE

The first thing you notice about BSNL is that they offer no brochures or instruction pamphlets to its potential customers. The basket of services on offer keeps changing so frequently that sales personnel themselves are unclear about what they are selling. They have clearly laid out procedures for giving out connections (application, id proof & address proof) and in exchange for the fees (R 2500+) you get a data-card, helpline number (1503) and a verbal assurance that the service would be activated by 4:00 PM the same day.

ACTIVATION

The actual activation took more then three days. At the promised 4:00PM, the customer service officers (CSO's) at the helpline number 1503 said that I had been misinformed by the sales personnel - actual activation would take 24 hours. After 24 hours they said new connections take 24-48 hours, and after 48 hours they informed me that the connection had been activated but would work only if I purchased a "recharge" for more than R50.

What about the 500MB data that was supposed to come free with a new connection? Sorry, you were misinformed.

CONNECTION SPEED

Neither sending nor receiving speed ever exceeds 100 KBps - at least in Trivandrum, Kerala.

Here is what R. Dinakaran writes about this issue in the Hindu Business Line (16 May 2011):
Another operator attracts customers by advertising speeds of 7.2 MBPS. When a potential customer wanted to test the speed at the operator's demo zone, he was informed that the services were still not ‘stable' and that he would get speeds of only around 3 MBPS. The speed test revealed the real speed — it never crossed 2.2 MBPS!

CUSTOMER SUPPORT

"Thank you for calling BSNL 3G Broadband Services...Your are in Q...your estimated hold-time is one minute...".

The first time I called 1503, a monotonous, deadpan voice went on repeating this message for 10 minutes before the call was finally picked up by a customer service officer (CSO). The wait may have been worthwhile if the problem got resolved, but it didn't.

Most CSO's were found to be inconsistent, evasive, and quite unhelpful. The only exception was a lady named Sunita. All other CSO's have this uncanny ability to cut the call whenever you ask them to explain something. At the customer help-desk at the BSNL office Statue, Trivandrum, the youngsters were found to be especially cocky and rude.

Some samples of red herrings from BSNL Customer Support Officers-
  • A call to *123# is returned with an SMS giving you data usage status but since it did not contain the updated validity period, I asked a CSO. Their reply - "Just send a message 'DATA3G' to 53733 for this information". The reply from 53733? - "This option is not available on your mobile number. Pl dial *123# to check details"!!

RECHARGE CONUNDRUMS

The BSNL website has a chart listing recharge rates for 3G prepaid services.  However most retailers in Trivndrum (Vattioorkavu, Shastamangalam) prefer to exclude BSNL from their list of mobile support services. The rare ones that do offer a recharge claim to be unaware about the current rates. Even those with a retailer's access to BSNL website is unable to tell the customer the exact recharge amount (eg. R203) without which he is unable to complete a transaction!   What prevents BSNL from communicating its tariff plans to its own vendors & retailers?

BSNL's tag-line for its 3G services is "Faster than your thoughts". Surely somebody out there has a wicked sense of humor...
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LINKS

Monday, April 11, 2011

India's Ban on Japanese Food Imports


India's food imports from Japan have been relatively insignificant. But on 5 April 2011,  India became the first country to suspended all Japanese food imports. This ban was to be reviewed after three months but within two days of announcement, the government did a U-turn and reversed the decision. What explains this unseemly hurry to impose a meaningless ban, and then to revoke it?

By all accounts, this seems to yet another case of the right hand not knowing that the left hand is up to, within the government of India. The ban seems to have been declared by the Ministry of Health after receiving inputs from the Food Safety and Standards Authority of India, Board of Radiation & Isotope Technology, Bhabha Atomic Research Centre (BARC), Atomic Energy Regulatory Board and the Indian Institute of Toxicology Research.

Since the Ministry of Trade had not been consulted, it promptly issued a notice rejecting the Health Ministry order. It insisted - perhaps quite rightly - that a blanket ban was unwarranted and that it would merely ask for some extra paperwork (radiation-free certification) from the importers.

At the end of the day, it is the government of India that stood exposed for the incompetence of its senior bureaucrats.

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India bans food import from Japan for 3 months (The Hindu, 6 APr., 2011). http://www.thehindubusinessline.com/industry-and-economy/article1602611.ece

India Ban on Food Imports from Japan - Economist - http://www.economist.com/node/18530743

India Bans Japan Food Imports (Reuters, 5 Apr 2011) - http://online.wsj.com/article/SB10001424052748703806304576244633790290812.html

India U-turn on Japan food import ban
(MB)  http://www.mb.com.ph/articles/313340/india-uturn-japan-food-import-ban

India does a U-Turn (Sky News, 8 April 2011). http://www.skynews.com.au/businessnews/article.aspx?id=599029&vId= 

Shikata,Takagi,Takashima & Karaki, "Japanese Food Safety Concern: Fact and Fiction" (FCCJ, 11 May 2011) http://www.fccj.or.jp/node/6577

Sunday, April 10, 2011

Quake Notes



Today, it is exactly one month after 'the big one' hit us at Tsukuba-U, Ibaraki Prefecture... and I am now tired of answering questions about our quake experience in Japan.

What were you doing when the quake struck? Were things really as bad as portrayed by BBC and CNN? Have you been exposed to radiation? Will I get cancer if I sit next to you? Hahaha.

This post is just an attempt to collate my impressions and images from 3/11 and the difficult days that followed.

Shock & Awe:

I was having a late lunch at home, sitting next to our baby - 4-month-old Aki. My wife had gone to pick our daughter from her school and we were all packed-up to leave for a holiday to Kyoto & Nara as soon as she got back home. Suddenly, the ground trembled and an overhead lamp started swinging. Oh, well, another one of those regular tremors, I thought. But then the shaking just would not stop - it got stronger and stronger...cupboards opened on their own, the windowpanes rattled wildly and strange, groaning noises came from the building girders. I grabbed Aki and stumbled out of the building to see buildings swaying like reeds.

It was cloudy and cold outside and brown, windblown seeds slowly floated down, covering everything like brown, fluffy snowflakes.

Standing outside in my stockings with a baby in my arms, I was filled with an immense sense of awe - at the force of nature that made the ground beneath my feet feel like jelly, and at the buildings around me that were performing this surreal, swaying dance instead of just breaking up and collapsing.

I tried to use the mobile phone… it was useless - the lines were already clogged. Once the first tremors subsided, I tried getting into the house but the doorway had been jammed by a fallen shoe-rack. I squeezed my way in to find the house in a complete mess.  Everything had come crashing down - TV, cupboards, cutlery, bookshelves but my half-eaten lunch was still intact on the table.

Even while I was wondering about the next thing to do, the tremors resumed. This time I went out wearing my shoes and jacket, with Aki in one arm and the baby-cart in another. He was to spend the rest of the evening outdoors lying peacefully in the cart, gently rocked to sleep by the incessant aftershocks.

First Moves:


A large crowd had collected by now at the Ichinoya parking lot. Electricity, internet links, water supply had already been shut down and security personnel in blue uniforms darted from one building to another, checking for trapped people and gas leakages.

Volunteers with yellow armbands appeared and urged everybody to assemble at the Ichinoya community centre. At the assembly, a plump, elderly officer in fluorescent green windcheater told everybody to calm down and stay within the community center. Within minutes it was announced that this building too was unsafe and it was better to move to the soccer ground across the lake and over-bridge. While we waited here, I checked the only device that seemed to be working - the Kindle e-reader. Our quake was already on BBC headlines and there was some alerts about a tsunami.

Nonchalance:

Even as the crowd gathered outdoors, stunned and bewildered at the quake & aftershocks, a garbage-truck slowly trundled in. The driver stepped out, glanced nonchalantly at the fuss around him and went on to briskly load his truck. He then continued on his rounds as though nothing had happened. Similarly, the C10 city buses continued to ferry people from one place to another, running their buses on schedule, and on time!

Extra Care:

The initial uncertainty and confusion dissipated as soon as more people appeared with loudspeakers and yellow-armbands. We were moved from the increasingly chilly outdoors to a gym. Its dark, cavernous interiors had been lit up with kerosene heaters. In the orange glow everybody sat in silence, waiting for the next round of tremors to rattle the steel beams and corrugated roof, high overhead.



Buses were then arranged to ferry the students in three groups - the families were to go first, followed by the single women and men. We missed the first bus- I had cycled back home for some emergency supplies - diapers, water and snacks. Instead of just asking us to go in the buses that followed, we were ferried in a special car to the evacuation center.

A few days later while traveling back the the university in a bus, the driver made an unscheduled stop, shut down the engine and stepped out of the vehicle. Even as we wondered what was happening, he walked across to the middle of the road, picked a large branch that had fallen there, shoved it beyond the pedestrian walkway before returning to his seat. A few hundred meters away, the same procedure was repeated twice over. I wondered if such a notion would even cross the mind of a city bus driver in India.


Fear:

It is past midnight...its raining and freezing cold outdoors. You are glad to be back home from the evacuation center. Even though there is no water in the taps, you have electricity and a connection to the internet. The kids are fast asleep and then, suddenly, that familiar, and, by now, dreaded rumble, starts again. You grab the kids but where do you go? If you stay indoors the building might just collapse - after all, how many shocks can a building take? It might be safer in the sleet & rain but what if the rainfall is radioactive? What do you do? Where do you go??

Scavenging:


At the evacuation center everybody was given a pack of salted biscuits. Hoping to find something more nutritious we set out looking for shops that were still open. After walking a few miles we found that not only small convenience stores but even large stores like Seibu and Dayz Town were closed. Luckily, a friend appeared in a car and we expanded our range. Far away from Tsukuba Centre, one convenience store was still open but the shelves are already empty. The smell of smashed liquor bottles lingered in the air; the floor looks as though it has been hurriedly mopped to make way for the crowds looking for something to eat and drink.



We picked up whatever is available - snacks, tetrapacks of yogurt, dried fruits and nuts - and slowly drove back to the evacuation centre. The only eatery that seemed to be open was Sukiya, but here too, the kitchen had been moved outdoors to serve a long line of customers patiently waiting for their turn to be served take-away packets.



Amazingly, even at the few shops that remained open, goods were sold at exactly the original marked price, even when the food shortages were at their worst.

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The home-seismograph

Trouble starts at Fukushima

Helmeted news-reader

Quake damage at Ichinoya
Lining-up for drinking water at Hirasuna

Wobbly pavements, Hanabatake

Friday, April 08, 2011

Bangalore to Vythiri


Pics from a road-trip to Wyanad and the forest ranges in the Western Ghats, South India.


View Vythiri, Wyanad, Kerala (3-5 April 2011) in a larger map





















Friday, March 04, 2011

Metamorphosis of a City

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It is interesting how a city transforms within a few days from imagination to ground realities...from the pictures you build up in your mind from books, movies, Google Earth, and then the way these images dissolve as your feet hit the streets.

The first time I remember seeing Shanghai was in Steven Speilberg`s movie, Empire of the Sun. Images of the Japanese Imperial Army bunkered in the surrounding countryside; their warships steaming up a river to launch a pre-dawn bombardment of the city. Panic, stampedes, street-battles and prison camps.

Now the river has a name - Pu. To its east is the old city established by the European merchants after they discovered an ingenious way of robbing the Chinese of their silver - by turning them into opium addicts in the name of "free trade".  These colonial buildings, which were once exclusive and awe inspiring, stand today like brightly lit insects on a museum display-panel.  You peer at them from the 100th floor of Shanghai World Financial Center across the river and marvel at the twists and turns of history...and the terrible fate that awaits nations that suffer weak governments and poor leadership.

Strangely, even after a decisive, centrally-planned transformation of Shanghai city during the period 1985-2000, what you see all around are symptoms of a slavish fascination for everything Western. The best preserved buildings are in the former colonial "concessions" while fortified town of old Shanghai gets steamrolled by residential towers sporting names that sound more British or French than Chinese. The streets are dominated by billboards of blond, anorexic models who seem to be rather effective in alluring young Chinese into dyeing their hair and looking perfectly ridiculous. Akihabara-Tokyo deja vu.

This trend is perhaps the reason why the government is anxious to promote a set of values that are unique to the Chinese. But will it be as easy as relocating residential areas to make way for skyscrapers and controlling half of Shanghai's population  (10+ million migrant-laborers!) through a system of residential permits? Can the Chinese politburo replicate the feat accomplished by the Meiji Reformers of Japan (1868-1912), in the age of Twitter, FaceBook, YouTube and Wikileaks?