Monday, November 18, 2024

For the Love of Railways

 


Smooth, flowing prose is so difficult to find!

The last book I read was the 2022 winner of the Booker prize, and I did not like it. Even before i reached half way through I had got tired of the ghosts and ghouls, the violence, and most of all, by the cumbersome writing style. So I was quite relieved to find a recent book by Haruki Murakami.

"Colourless Tsukuru Tazaki and His Years of Pilgrimage" (2013) has its share of the usual Murakami elements - a protagonist (TT) trying to come to terms with a troubled past, a tangle of human relationships, and a piece of music that ties up the threads. In this book it is Franz Liszt's 'Le mal du pays' (Fr. homesickness, melancholy) from his Years of Pilgrimage, suite 'Year I: Switzerland', preferably played by the Russian pianist Lazar Berman. For a change, this book has few references to food, and none on cats :)

One thing I liked in particular about this book is the descriptions of Japan's amazing railway network, and its stations. It gives you a glimpse of the kind of passion that goes into building machines in Japan. TT is a an engineer who specialises in designing and building railway stations - Tsukuru visited railroad stations like other people enjoy attending concerts, watching movies, dancing in clubs, watching sports, and window shopping. When he was at loose ends, with nothing to do, he headed to a station.

This brings us to lovely descriptions like this one - 

Shinjuku Station is enormous. Every day nearly 3.5 million people pass through it, so many that the Guinness Book of World Records officially lists JR Shinjuku Station as the station with the "Most passengers in the World". A number of railroad lines cross there, the main ones being the Chuo line, Sobu line, Yamanote line, Saikyo line, Shonan-Shinjuku line, and the Narita Express. The rails intersect and combine in convoluted ways. There are sixteen platforms in total. In addition, there are two private rail lines, the Odakyu and the Keio line, and three subway lines plugged in, as it were, from the side. It is a total maze. During rush hour, that maze transforms into a sea of humanity, a sea that foams up, rages, and roars as it surges towards the entrances and exits. Streams of people changing trains become entangled, giving rise to dangerous, swirling whirlpools. No prophet how righteous, could part that fierce, turbulent sea...The long trains, their arrivals and departures times down to the second, are like long-suffering, well-trained farm animals, systematically exhaling and inhaling people, impatiently closing their doors as they rush off towards the next station.

The engineer loves his work, but it is music - mostly classical - that binds his life together. So apart from Lizst, he has for company,  Thelonius Monk ('Round Midnight, 1943), Antonio Carlos Jobim, and even Elvis Presley ("Viva Las Vegas", "Don't be Cruel").

As with other novels by Murakami, this one too is best savoured with his selection of music playing in the background :)

 

Sunday, October 20, 2024

Trek to Kedartal


It has been about two weeks since we returned from our annual Himalayan trek. After having done most of our earlier treks in the Dhauladhar mountains, this was our first foray into Uttarakhand (UK). How different was it compared to the treks in Himachal Pradesh (HP)? 

On a map the trail to Kedartal looks quite straightforward, and benign. It is a glacial lake located about 17km west of Gangotri glacier from which the Ganges river originates. Here the holy river is called the Bhairathi and it rages past Gangotri town, squeezing through rocky cliffs and misty cataracts, towards Uttarkashi.


It is only when you look at the near vertical mountains around Gangotri that you realise that the neat lines marking the path to Kedartal is anything but that. Running eastwards from the town, the trails takes you along steep forested slopes past Kedar Ganga to the first camping site at Bhoj Kharak (8km, 12436ft/3790m). 

The trail goes through a complete transformation the next day when you climb past the pine and birch forests, past the tree-line into grassy slopes of Kedar Kharak (5km, 14050ft/4282m) where the second camp-site is located. From here on it is all moraines - moonscape of broken rocks and boulders  - that leads you the lovely lake at base of three snow-peaks - Bhrigupanth, Thalay Sagar and Jogin I

Given the height of the surrounding peaks not much sunlight reaches these deep valleys. Even on the clearest of days the sunset happens around 2:30 pm. For the rest of the afternoon the campsites are enveloped first by the racing shadows, and then by pitch darkness and cold winds.


In the Dhauladhar mountains of HP, each trail has a character of its own. On some treks (eg., Kugti / Indrahar Pass) you need to carry water until you reach the glaciers, while other valleys (eg., Baleni, Minkiani Pass) there is no shortage of springs and streams to fill your bottles but snow-cover can be very unpredictable. One thing common in most Himachal treks is that you are almost always on routes taken by the shepherds. 

The treks in Uttarakhand, especially on the char-dham routes (Yamunotri, Gangotri, Kedarnath and Badrinath), there are no meadows or pastures across the mountain passes all the way to Tibet plateau. So there are no shepherds to be seen on these routes. What you do see are herds of Bharals or Blue Sheep with their magnificent, curved horns. These animals keep their distance from trekking groups but watching them without precautions can turn out to be dangerous. In a group that we met on our way back, a porter got badly injured from a rock-fall triggered by Bharals.

The trekking scene in UK seemed better structured and regulated compared to HP.  You are not permitted to venture into protected forest areas without a permit or trained guides. These guides, in turn, ensure that those venturing into the mountains are carrying suitable protective-wear and camping gear. These guides can be exacting too - many of our personal sleeping bags were rejected because they were deemed unsuitable for temperatures below -20C. 

All these checks clearly shows on quality of the trails - the pathways are clean and litter-free. No chips packers blowing in the wind or alcohol bottles littering the streams. Camping groups are expected to have toilet tents and pits for safely disposing food waste.

Thanks to the Char-Dham initiative of the central government the road infrastructure in this area is seeing rapid improvement. This also means that the newly widened roads are more prone to landslides and rock-falls. 

So, if you're planning a trek in Uttaranchal, around the char-dham area better be prepared long traffic jams!

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REFERENCES & LINKS

Char Dham - https://www.namasteindiatrip.com/history-of-chardham.html

https://trekthehimalayas.com/kedar-tal-trek



Saturday, September 21, 2024

Kalidasa - Flights of Imagination

How does one express gratitude to an algorithm? :)

Social media in general, and YouTube particular, can lead you to some of amazing young talent. During the Covid years, there was this lady, Anuja K (Out of the Shruti Box), who demystified Indian classical music by relating it not only to popular Bollywood songs but also linked it to other systems of music in the world. There is also a new generation of historians like Anirudh Kanisetti (Thinking Medeival), who brings fresh perspectives to the way we examine our 'messy, bloody, colourful' past.

One aspect common to all these new content creators is that they understand not only the importance pitching to the right audience with appropriate tags and key-words, but also the need to keep their clips of just the right size - not too long, not too short.

This week the algorithm spirits led me to Navaneet Galagali who has a channel named "Rasaganga" for appreciating literature, poetry and music.  Perhaps it is my interest in Sanskrit that led YT to suggest Galagali's introduction to "Meghadootam", or the 'Cloud Messenger'. Written by Kalidasa, one of ancient India's greatest poets (5th century CE), Meghadoota, describes the plight of an exiled, lovelorn celestial (a Yaksha) who asks a passing cloud to carry a message to his beloved wife.

Sanskrit poetry can be dense and forbidding but Galagali introduces the Meghadoota beautifully in two short clips. Initially I was a bit skeptical when he started off with his Yankee accent but got hooked the moment he switched to reciting stanzas from "Purva Megha" (Eastern Cloud).


On the first day of Ashadha month,

he sees a cloud clinging to a mountain;

It appears as though an elephant

is head-butting the peak!

He welcomes the cloud with love and affection, imagines it be a sentient being, and requests the cloud to carry his message while remembering to take breaks along the way:


As you proceed, use the mountaintops,

as your resting spots;

And quench your thirst,

From the water in the streams;

For its a long way ti Alaka Nagari!


It is a long way for sure! - from hills and plains of central India, all the way across a specific Himalayan pass to the base of Mt. Kailasha where Alaka Nagari is situated.

Navaneet Galagali presents the poem so well that I found myself looking for specific stanzas in the original text. He has only skimmed over the first part of the 120 stanza poem and I look forward to the rest of his series on this, as well as his melodious recitations!

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The Cloud's Itinerary :)

  • Ramtek (Maharashtra)
  • Amrakuta (Amarakantak
  • Alaka (atop Mt. Kailasha)
  • Vidisha (capital of Dasharana Desha)
  • Neechairna Giri (Udayagiri caves)
  • Avanti
  • Ujjain 
  • Shipra River
  • Devagiri - temple of Skanda
  • Charmanvari River (Chambal)
  • Dashapura (Mandsaur)
  • Brahmavarta (between Saraswati and Drishadvati rivers)
  • Kurukshetra
  • Kanakhala (near Haridwar)
  • Gangotri
  • Krauncha Pass / Hamsadwara (Niti Pass bordering Tibet - north of Nanda Devi National Park)
  • Manasarovar Lake
  • Alaka Nagari on 'the lap of Mt. Kailasa)

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REFERENCES & LINKS

* Meghadoota by Kalidasa (5th Century CE) - https://avg-sanskrit.org/avgclasses/Books&PDFs/kavya/Meghaduta/Kalidasas%20Meghaduta%20Skt%20Eng%20-%20KB%20Pathak%201916.pdf

* Meghaduta by Kalidasa - Ashadha maasa (part 1) | Navaneet Galagali - https://youtu.be/ilgqmfO6Sy4?si=ndbQS-DJjidY6A9G

* The cloud's journey - Meghaduta by Kalidasa (part 2) - https://youtu.be/O9JxBm4C1CQ?si=Qh7unO8WeASz5M0P

* Exploring the Geographical Data of Meghadoota - https://ggw.studenttheses.ub.rug.nl/168/1/1112-GW%20%20WESTRA%20M.%20%20Ma-thesis.pdf

* Blogpost - Jaladhara - https://karpuramanjari.blogspot.com/2015/06/


Saturday, September 14, 2024

A Russian Realist in Ellora

 


What did Vasily Vereshchagin see in Ellora?

Vasily was a Russian realist painter who travelled across India during the 1800s and left us scores of amazing paintings that bring back to life a begone era. From the glaciers of Ladakh, grand palaces and warriors of North India, sculptures of the Deccan, as well as iconic images from the revolt of 1857.

A recent thread on this amazing painter appeared on X and it clearly seemed to depict a sculpture that I had seen and photographed in 2023 from one of the Jain temples of Ellora. It depicted a brightly coloured celestial perched on an elephant, and the caption read - "Statue of Vishnu in the temple of Indra in Ellora". Strangely, the same caption on Reddit and WikiArt as well.

I say 'strangely' because anyone who has travelled to Ellora would know that this particular sculpture is from the entrance hall of a Jain temple and that it does not depict Vishnu but Yaksha Matanga, the god of prosperity, sitting on an elephant. It is a stunningly beautiful, large piece of work dating back to the 9th century CE that sits at the entrance of of the rock-cut cave number 32 (Indra Sabha), opposite an equally impressive figure of Siddhaika Yakshini.



Vasily's painting also brings up intriguing questions - was this 1000+year-old sculpture in such good condition when he visited Ellora in the 1870s? The bright paints on the sculpture indicates that it was being worshiped even in the 1800s...if so who gouged out Matanga's eyes and broke his nose? Did Vasily leave any notes from his amazing travels to Central Asia and India?

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REFERENCES & LINKS

Sunday, August 18, 2024

Solar Intensity Meter


This is one of the most fascinating analogue instruments I have seen.

Simple, elegant, rugged and functional, this instrument is called the Campbell Stokes Sunshine Recorder. It was invented in the mid 1800s, and the design remains more or less the same today. At a time when just about everything works on electronic sensors and wireless transmission, this equipment contains just three components - a metal base, a glass ball and a piece of paper. 

Once properly aligned to the correct latitude-longitude, the instrument simply catches the suns rays throughout the day and burns a line through the blue-paper (the "sunshine-card"), placed at its base. The stronger the sunlight, the broader and deeper the burn!

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REFERENCES 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Campbell%E2%80%93Stokes_recorder


Saturday, August 17, 2024

Ladakh Surprises

 


The first thing that hits you about Ladakh is the distances - everything is so far away!

What seems like a short drive through the valley turns out to be a long, winding, day long trip. You drive for one whole day and look a map in the evening to discover that 10 hours of driving has only revealed to you a small corner of Ladakh. The forbidding remoteness of the mountain ranges is only revealed in areas where the pukka roads end. 

You may have heard that Leh district is the second largest (after Kutch) in India, covering an area of 45,110 sqkm, with a population density of just 6 people/sqkm. The number may not mean much until you spend hours on the roads without seeing another human being, or consider, for perspective, that the whole of Kerala state is smaller at 38,863 sqkm!

One whole day to drive to Alchi Monastery, Nimoo Dam and back, another whole day to take you from Leh, across the Khardungla Pass, past Khalsar on the Shyok river valley, and then, past Thoise, to Turtuk.  Another full day through the Nubra river valley to its headwaters below the Siachen glacier. On both these routes, parts of the road is submerged under swift streams, and you see suspension bridges buffeted in the raging waters of the Shyok and Indus..


As you move from one valley to another, you see a distinct variation in the colour and hue of the mountains. Bald slopes that look light brown and beige colour in the Nubra Valley seem to shift to shares of purple and pink in the Zanskar ranges. 



Ancient Routes

On the road to Alchi, next to the Indus river, is a fenced enclosure with hundreds of petroglyphs. Some of these drawings on the boulders are said to date back to the Neolithic or Bronze age, showing ibex, snow leopards, hunting scenes. The more recent - and numerous - ones date back to the Buddhist era. Stylised chortens with human figurines dancing on top.

These drawings actually take advantage of the fact that the stone surface has a distinctly different colour. So whatever material they used for these drawings etched away the surface colour, leaving the lighter sub-surface colour exposed. Similar petrogyphs were also seen in the Nubra river valley. On our way back from Taksha village towards Pamanik hot-springs, a boulder stood by the roadside with the very same ibex drawings!


Around Diskit and Hunder, on the broad valley where the Shyok and Nubra rivers meet, you see a paradox. An area where there is plenty of fresh water, you see barely any vegetation. The whole area is covered with sand dunes. Double-humped bactrian camels forage among the bushes.  It is not difficult to imagine the times when long caravans of these camels carried goods, ideas and people across these mountain valleys, to Tibet, Yarkand and beyond, to Central Asia.


Rivers Running Backwards

Ladakh is flanked by two mountain ranges - Zanskar to the south and Karakoram to the north. Rivers flow very differently between these ranges - the Nubra flows south-east from the Siachen Glaciers, and then after going about 70km in this direction, abruptly changes to flow almost backwards to the north-west direction after joining the Shyok river at the Hunder-Diskit junction.


River Shyok, on the other hand, starts off from the same set of glaciers north of Siachen, flows in the same SE direction for more than double the distance, and near Dubruk, does a V-turn and flows westwards for about 200km and becomes the Indus before deciding that it must go southwards after all!






Sunday, July 28, 2024

Switching to Sony


Over the past two weeks, I have been looking for options. Now there are so many that I am spoilt for choices - the world of digital cameras has changed a lot over the past 15 years. Cameras have become lighter, smarter and a lot more user-friendly.

What I loved about the D90 kit was that it was sturdy and versatile with a superb battery life - on a single charge I could get over ~850 frames, without the hassle of carrying around the clunky charging kit. The 18-105mm lens was great for wide-angle shots, portraits as well as a respectable zoom. What I did not like was the bulk - it was way too heavy to lug around for treks in the Himalayas. The battery for all is greatness on the plains would simply fail at low temperatures. On brilliant starlit nights when temperatures dropped below zero, the battery would play dead and miraculously come back to life when we descended to warmer climes. 

 

So what was I looking for? First of all, I wanted to graduate from an APS-C to a full-frame digicam, from an SLR to a mirror-less camera. The camera had to be weather-sealed; it had to be as light and compact as possible, and still have a decent battery-life. I knew mirrorless cams were battery hogs, but still, I did not want to carry around chargers/adaptors, and I wanted a camera that offered the highest possible exposures on a single charge.

 

My first option was to stick to the Nikon family. I was familiar with the layout of the camera, and I had been a happy customer for the past 15 years. Unlike the Canon G9 which died on me within a year of purchase in Japan, this one never gave me any trouble (until last week), from the time I had purchased it in 2009 from Yodobashi-Akiba,Tokyo. Starting with the trek to Mt. Fuji summit a week later, it had been with me through all kinds of terrain - mountains, deserts, beaches, humid tropics, the works.


The problem with the Nikon D-90 was that its lenses could be used only on APS-C format bodies, unless, of course you were willing to spend about 25k to buy an adaptor. For that price, I could get a new set of primes! So the Nikon Z5 was out. If I were to stick to APS-C format, FujiFilm offered some good choices with models like the X5 but the price and weight brought me back to the question - if I had to spend so much money anyway, why not focus on full-frames?


This brought me to the Panasonic Lumix S5. I liked the sturdiness of this camera and the demo where mugs of water were poured over it without any apparent effect. Then again, the weight and overdose of knobs and dials on the body put me off. Lens options are limited too.


It is as this stage that I came to know about the Sony E-mounts. Unlike Nikon which has a different set of mounts for its full-frame and APS-C cameras, Sony has the same one across its detachable lens formats. Folks using their APS-C lenses on a Sony E-mount would only had to content with a crop-factor instead of buying separate adaptors. Thanks to this brilliant idea, the E-mounts had arguably the widest range of affordable third-party lenses from Tamron, Sigma, etc..


On a visit to the Sony Camera Lounge in Lajpat Nagar, I noticed a smaller, lighter model - the Alpha-7C2 with a 28-60mm kit lens. From its size I assumed this was an APS-C model but was quite amazed to learn that this was Sony's first full-frame, compact model launched as A7C in 2020. I loved its clean lines, weather-proof built, the retro look of its silver trimming, minimalist use of dials and switches, its fully articulating screen, and the fact that it had an EVF view-finder too!


I liked the fact that the A7C had been tried and tested in the market for the past four years. It had now been replaced by the A7C-2 which is substantially more expensive. This meant that the older model was selling for an attractive discount :) The die was cast. Future Forward, LPN was offering a great deal too (cash + UPI ) - A7C body + battery + external adapter/charger + carry-bag. 


Now for the E-mount full-frame lens. Nearly all the reviews on the internet (there are loads!), had rated the standard 28-60mm kit-lens rather poorly, so, I decided to pair my A7C with a Tamron 28-200mm. The set looks beautiful. In terms of size it is just about the same weight and volume as the Nikon D90 + 18-105mm. This meant that my old faithful Lowepro would do just fine.





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REFERENCES & LINKS


CAMERAS - APS-C 

35mm Full frame 

Comparisons

Full-frame lenses

Lens Comparison:

Sony A7C Reviews

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